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Sirbaz Khan Summits Mount Everest Without Supplemental Oxygen

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May 22, 2024

Hunza-based climber Sirbaz Khan has become the first Pakistani to scale 11 peaks over 8,000 meters without using supplementary oxygen.

On Tuesday, Pakistan’s premier mountaineer Sirbaz Khan achieved a significant milestone by successfully summiting Mount Everest, the world’s highest peak, without supplementary oxygen.

Previously, Sirbaz had summited the 8,849-meter Everest using bottled oxygen. Today, he reached the top at around 12:30 PM PST, becoming the second Pakistani to achieve this feat without oxygen, following Sajid Sidpara.

In addition to his recent accomplishment, Sirbaz Khan is also the first Pakistani to climb 11 of the world’s highest peaks without oxygen support. In total, he has scaled 13 peaks over 8,000 meters.

Of these 13 summits, only Annapurna and Kangchenjunga were climbed with oxygen support.

Earlier this year, Sirbaz had to postpone his plan to summit Shishapangma—his 14th and final eight-thousander—after Chinese authorities decided not to open the mountain for climbing this season.

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