Sirbaz Khan: First Pakistani to Summit All 14 of the World’s Highest Peaks
ISLAMABAD: In a remarkable feat of courage and determination, Sirbaz Khan has made history as the first Pakistani mountaineer to conquer all 14 of the world’s peaks above 8,000 meters, according to the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP).
“This extraordinary accomplishment showcases his unwavering passion and dedication to the sport of mountaineering,” said Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the ACP.
Sirbaz has navigated the most extreme conditions, scaling formidable heights from Mount Everest to K2. Battling freezing temperatures, treacherous avalanches, oxygen-depleted altitudes, and the ever-present danger of crevasses, he has consistently demonstrated remarkable resilience and strength.
“His success represents not only a personal triumph but also serves as an inspiration to mountaineers around the globe. Sirbaz Khan’s journey exemplifies the power of perseverance and meticulous preparation, solidifying his place in the annals of mountaineering history,” Haidri added.
Hailing from Aliabad in the Hunza Valley of Gilgit-Baltistan, Sirbaz previously climbed 13 of the 14 highest peaks before achieving this monumental milestone. His final ascent was Shishapangma, the 14th highest mountain at 8,027 meters (26,335 feet), located entirely in Tibet. Notably, Shishapangma was the last of the 8,000-meter peaks to be summited, reached for the first time in 1964.
Climbing all 8,000-meter peaks is a revered achievement in the mountaineering world, with only 41 climbers globally having accomplished this feat prior to Sirbaz.
His climbing journey includes significant ascents such as Nanga Parbat in October 2017, K2 in July 2018, and Lhotse in May 2019, among others. In a heartfelt message, Sirbaz dedicated this achievement to the memory of the late Pakistani mountaineer Muhammad Ali Sadpara.
Beginning his climbing career in 2016, Sirbaz quickly became known for his focus and talent. In 2019, he made headlines as the first Pakistani to summit Lhotse (8,516 m) without supplementary oxygen, further cementing his legacy in the mountaineering community.
